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The Sentier des Douaniers in Brittany, also known as the GR34, runs along the coast for nearly 2,000 km. Created in the 18th century to combat smuggling, it now crosses 4 departments: Ille-et-Vilaine, Côtes-d’Armor, Finistère and Morbihan. Each stretch reveals a different side of Brittany, between cliffs, coves and fishing harbours. Hiking enthusiasts often make use of various waterside campsites to cover a few stages of the trail.
Here’s the history of the path, its finest stretches, and practical tips to help you prepare your hike!
The story of the coastal customs path begins during the French Revolution. In 1791, the National Assembly created a customs corps tasked with keeping watch over the coastline. These officers walked day and night to track down smugglers landing alcohol, tobacco and other taxed goods. To make their patrols easier, a narrow path was traced along the Breton coastline.
Smuggling declined during the 19th century, and the path gradually fell into disuse. In the 1960s, the first hikers rediscovered these forgotten trails. The French Hiking Federation officially certified the GR34 in 1968. Since then, local authorities have maintained it and linked it end to end. Today, it ranks among the most popular long-distance trails in France.
Among the stretches of the Sentier des Douaniers in Brittany, five sections stand out clearly. From north to south, each reveals a distinct atmosphere. Here are the GR34’s best-known stages:
Each section takes between 2 and 5 days to walk, depending on your pace. You can also pick out a few kilometres for a day’s walk to discover the GR34 without committing to more.
Our favourite tip: set out on the GR34 early in the morning, between 6am and 8am. The cliffs turning pink at sunrise, the absence of crowds and the call of the curlews turn the walk into a pure moment of escape. Bring a flask of coffee for a break on a headland facing the sea: an unforgettable moment at the heart of the Breton coastal path.
How you prepare for a hike on the GR34 depends on your goal: a day, a weekend, or the whole trail. Either way, a few habits remain essential:
Good to know: the French Hiking Federation publishes a series of guides by department. These trail guides are invaluable for mapping out your stages.
The GR34 remains accessible to any walker in good physical condition. Some sections, such as those on the Crozon peninsula in Finistère, involve constant climbs and descents. Allow 15 to 20 km a day at a relaxed pace.
The best time to walk the GR34 runs from May to September. Brittany’s climate is milder then, the days are longer, and the vegetation is in full bloom. May and June stand out for their soft light and the flowering gorse. July and August let you swim along the way, despite busier crowds.
September remains one of the best options. Temperatures stay pleasant, autumn colours start to appear, and tourists become scarcer. In winter, some stretches become slippery, or even dangerous during spring tides. Always prepare suitable clothing, as Breton weather changes fast. A windbreaker, lightweight trousers and a hat come in handy in any season.
Fancy discovering the Sentier des Douaniers for yourself? Browse our range of waterside campsites in Brittany and plan your perfect itinerary! Book your stay in Ille-et-Vilaine, the Côtes-d’Armor, Finistère or the Morbihan!
The Sentier des Douaniers in Brittany runs for around 2,000 km. It follows the coast from Mont-Saint-Michel in Ille-et-Vilaine all the way to Saint-Nazaire in Loire-Atlantique. This makes it one of the longest long-distance trails in France. Many walkers prefer to split it into sections rather than walking it all in one go.
No, the GR34 is walking-only. The trail is reserved for hikers and regularly passes through narrow sections, steps and rocky cliffs that are unsuitable for cycling. To cycle along the Breton coast, it’s better to head for the Vélomaritime (EV4) or La Littorale, dedicated cycling routes.
To walk the entire Sentier des Douaniers, allow between 2 and 3 months at a pace of 20 km a day. Most hikers prefer a stage-by-stage approach, devoting one or two weeks of holiday to a specific stretch. Each section works well as a standalone trip, with no obligation to link them all together.
Yes, the GR34 suits families, as long as you choose the right stretch. The flat sections around the Gulf of Morbihan or the Bay of Saint-Brieuc are easy to walk with children over 6 years old. Avoid the vertigo-inducing passages of Cap Fréhel or the Pointe du Raz with young children, as these are too exposed and slippery.
No, wild camping is banned along the Breton coastal strip. Indeed, the law protects these fragile natural areas. To spend the night near the GR34, use our site to find a campsite instead.
